1. Measure across front of chest, from under arm to under arm. Mine was 10"
2. Triple that measurement-I had a total of 30"
3. Measure from collar bone down to the desired length plus amount you want for your hem. I wanted a small hem of 2".
4. Cut your front and back to those measurements, also cut four straps 2"x12".
5. Make a tiny hem on front and back edge. I did 1/8" fold twice then sew.
6. Measure down 1 1/2" from top for first pleating row on front and back, pleat according to your plate. I used the smocking plate Sarah Joy from Martha Pullen's book "Joy of Smocking".
7. After smocking, block to the desired size, mine was blocked at 9".
8. Sew up side seams leaving about 5-6" open at top for arm opening, I left an opening of 6". Hem the raw edges of arm opening. You may have to try on to see how large you need to leave open.
9. To construct straps, fold straps in half lengthwise, sew across short end, turn continue to sew along long edge using a 3/8" seam. Leave one end open for turning. Turn and press. Repeat for all four straps.
10. Sew straps to dress front and back about 1" in from edge of dress.