Scalloped Hem

This How To was contributed by Shediditagen

I want to share all I've learned so far in this fascinating
art of sewing and needle work. Betty

Step One:: Decide on how wide and deep you want your scallops
to be. I picked a fruit dish for this and marked the
lines for 1 1/4" deep, width is 4 1/2". I also marked
a dot for center. I mark with a ball point pen for
guide lines.....this will be cut off later.

Step Two: If a gathered skirt is being attached to a yoke or
bodice, sew one side seam, right sides together
(RST), and start marking at the side seam with the
"dot", continue with full scallops, ending with
another "half scallop" plus allowance for the second
side seam. (It is easier to hem over a seam at the
curve instead of the point). Sometimes you will have
to trim off a few inches of skirt width to make
scallops come out even.

If skirt has both side seams sewed, RST measure
width and divide by how many scallops you want
(8/10/12/etc.) then find a round object and mark to
match your findings.

Step Three: FAVORITE WAY (for washable fabrics only).
Use "Wash-A-Way"™ a water soluble basting thread
by WLI in both bobbin and needle. Right sides together
sew with a normal or slightly longer stitch below
marked scallop using the machine foot as a guide. The
seam has been sewn in the picture, but I added ink
stitching lines to show where.

Step Four: Trim away under ink lines, trim points, and clip
curves (few clips as necessary.....not too deep)

Step Five: Turn, careful at points...I use a wooden skewer that
has the sharp tip cut off and smoothed with an emery
board. You can smooth the overlapping seam allowances
a little with this tool. Use a DRY iron and press
lightly.

Step Six: I use a wet (almost dripping) washcloth corner and wet
the scallops well. With a DRY iron, press until
fabric is dry and smooth.

Step Seven: Open up the two layers and by almost magic, the hem is
turned under and ready to baste and hem! If there is
resistance, re-wet and iron again.

Follow instructions in Step Nine for hem

Step Eight: NORMAL WAY (and for dry cleanable fabrics)
Single layer of fabric.....sew with matching thread
under the ink markings, again using the foot as a
guide. Trim off the ink markings, trim points, and
clip curves.

Step Nine: Turn up hem and baste (I pin), baste again about an
inch under scallops, (I do this but hate to baste)
then pin points etc. in place and again baste, this is
a "have to" part! Ready to hand hem......so many
choices for this, use your favorite one.
The stitching line is left in to control bias on the curves
and is a guide for the amount to be turned under.

Step Ten: This picture shows the white scallops as the bottom of
the dress.....just fold up hem, RST, and mark at the
fold, trim, turn, and hem......another choice.